Samburu National Reserve

They are five dry-country species found in northern Kenya and almost nowhere else on the standard safari circuit: Grevy's zebra, distinguished by narrow stripes and large rounded ears; reticulated giraffe, with sharply defined polygonal markings; Beisa oryx; gerenuk, the long-necked antelope that browses standing on its hind legs; and the blue-necked Somali ostrich. Seeing all five is a common goal for visitors here. Conservancies bordering the reserve permit walking and night drives that the national reserve itself does not.

Almost entirely. Samburu is hot, semi-arid and rugged, with game concentrated along a single river through near-desert country, while the Mara is green rolling grassland with far higher densities and the migration. Samburu is smaller, quieter and holds species the Mara does not. Many Kenyan itineraries pair the two deliberately, since they offer such different landscapes and wildlife. Drives run early and late, with a long break through the fierce heat of the middle of the day.

It is one of the more reliable reserves in Kenya for leopard, largely because the riverine thicket along the Ewaso Ng'iro concentrates them into a narrow band that guides know well. Sightings are never guaranteed with a nocturnal and secretive animal, but the odds here are better than in most Kenyan parks. Early morning and late afternoon drives along the river offer the best chance. Samburu pairs naturally with Ol Pejeta, Lewa and Mount Kenya on a northern Kenya circuit.

Hot enough to shape the whole day. Samburu regularly exceeds 33°C and can push beyond 35°C in January and February, with nights staying above 20°C. Game drives therefore run early and late, with a long break through the middle of the day. Sun protection, a hat and far more water than you think necessary are all genuinely important here. Conservancies bordering the reserve permit walking and night drives that the national reserve itself does not.

By road it is roughly 350 kilometres north of Nairobi, five to six hours via Nanyuki and Isiolo, with the last stretch rough. Scheduled light aircraft serve the reserve's airstrips from Wilson Airport in about an hour, which is how most visitors arrive. Samburu combines well by road with Mount Kenya, Ol Pejeta and Lewa on a northern Kenya circuit. Drives run early and late, with a long break through the fierce heat of the middle of the day.

It is the river that makes Samburu possible, rising in the Aberdares and on Mount Kenya and carrying highland water north through country that receives very little rainfall of its own. Its banks support doum palms and riverine forest, and virtually all the reserve's game depends on it. In severe drought years it can reduce to pools, which concentrates wildlife dramatically. Samburu pairs naturally with Ol Pejeta, Lewa and Mount Kenya on a northern Kenya circuit.

Yes, and it is increasingly the way this region is visited. Samburu-owned conservancies managed through the Northern Rangelands Trust surround the reserves and now cover far more land, offering walking, night drives and camel treks that the national reserves do not permit. Staying in a conservancy also channels revenue directly to the communities who own the land. Conservancies bordering the reserve permit walking and night drives that the national reserve itself does not.

June to October is the main dry window and the strongest for game viewing, when the surrounding country is parched and animals depend entirely on the river. December to February is hot and dry with similar concentrations and excellent photographic light. March to May and November bring the rains, when game disperses, the river can flood and the Special Five become harder to find. Drives run early and late, with a long break through the fierce heat of the middle of the day.