Dodoma City

Julius Nyerere designated Dodoma the capital in 1973, choosing a central location to balance development away from the coast and closer to the population centre of the country. The move proved far slower and more expensive than planned, and Dar es Salaam remained the effective seat of government for decades. The transfer of ministries and parliament has only completed in recent years, and many embassies still operate from Dar es Salaam.

It is not a conventional tourist destination and has almost no visitor infrastructure, which is precisely what some travellers like about it. The main draws are the wine estates on the outskirts, unusual in East Africa, and the Kondoa Irangi rock paintings about 160 kilometres north, a UNESCO site with some of the oldest rock art on the continent. Its position at the junction of the main routes makes it a convenient overnight break.

It does, and the region is the centre of the country's small wine industry. The semi-arid climate and the altitude of around 1,120 metres suit viticulture better than most of Tanzania, and several estates on the city's outskirts produce reds and whites from locally grown grapes. Tours and tastings are possible. Most production is red and sweet by international standards, though drier styles are increasingly made. Dodoma's position at the junction of the main routes north, south and east makes it a convenient overnight break on a long drive.

They are a UNESCO World Heritage Site about 160 kilometres north of Dodoma, comprising hundreds of rock shelters on the eastern escarpment of the Maasai plateau painted over thousands of years. Some images are among the oldest known rock art in Africa. Access requires a guide and a reasonable vehicle, and the roads become difficult during the rains. Allow a full day and arrange a guide in advance through the antiquities office at Kolo.

Dodoma sits at the junction of routes between Dar es Salaam, Arusha, Iringa and Mwanza. Dar es Salaam is about 450 kilometres east, six to seven hours on good tarmac, and Arusha roughly 440 kilometres north. Dodoma Airport has scheduled flights from Dar es Salaam. The central line railway also serves the city, running between Dar es Salaam and Kigoma or Mwanza, though schedules are unreliable. Facilities are geared to government and university visitors rather than tourists, so expect functional rather than scenic accommodation.

The city has a reasonable range of business hotels serving government and university visitors rather than tourists, concentrated near the civic centre and along the main approach roads. Standards are functional rather than luxurious, and prices are considerably lower than in Arusha or Dar es Salaam. Booking ahead matters mainly when parliament is sitting, as rooms fill with officials and delegations at those times. Carry water on any journey in this region, as the roads run long distances with little shade or services.

Yes, and it is one of the quieter and safer Tanzanian cities, with little of the street crime found in Dar es Salaam. Normal urban precautions are sufficient. As the seat of government there is a visible security presence around parliament and ministries, and photographing government buildings is not advised. The greater practical risk is long-distance road travel, with heavy truck traffic on the highways in and out. Dodoma's position at the junction of the main routes north, south and east makes it a convenient overnight break on a long drive.

Lion Rock on the city outskirts is a granite outcrop with long views across the plateau, and makes a good early evening walk. The wine estates are within easy reach for a half day. Beyond Kondoa to the north, the road onward toward Babati and Arusha passes through increasingly scenic country, and Dodoma works well as the midpoint of an overland route linking the coast with the northern circuit. Facilities are geared to government and university visitors rather than tourists, so expect functional rather than scenic accommodation.