Tanzania

Mto wa mbu

When to visit: January to February and June to October
Size: 25 sq km
Temperature: 28 'C
Rainfall: 25mm

Overview

About Mto wa mbu

Mto wa Mbu sits at the foot of the Great Rift Valley escarpment at the entrance to Lake Manyara National Park, and is one of the most unusual villages in Tanzania.

Over 120 ethnic groups live here, drawn from every corner of the country by irrigated farmland fed with water running off the escarpment. It is often described as the only place where all of Tanzania’s major language families are spoken within a single settlement.

The name means River of Mosquitoes, which undersells it considerably. The same water that gives the village its name makes this stretch of dry valley floor extraordinarily productive, supporting rice paddies, banana groves and market gardens in country that would otherwise be scrub.

Cultural tourism here is well organised and long established, taking in irrigated smallholdings, craft workshops, banana beer brewing and a market carrying produce from every region of Tanzania. Every northern circuit itinerary passes through, and many stop.

People and culture

The village's diversity is its defining feature. Chagga, Maasai, Rangi, Iraqw, Sandawe, Makonde and many others farm side by side, having arrived over generations drawn by the irrigation potential, and the market reflects every one of them.

The cultural tourism programme is among the oldest in Tanzania, established in the 1990s, and channels fees directly into local schools and clinics rather than through intermediaries. Walks are led by guides from the village itself.

Makonde artisans from the far south of the country run woodcarving workshops here, producing ebony pieces in a tradition quite distinct from the crafts of the northern peoples. Banana beer, known as mbege, is brewed in homesteads and is a genuine part of daily social life rather than a demonstration.

The Maasai graze cattle on the plains beyond the village and trade in the market, and the Iraqw farm the higher ground of the escarpment above. Both relationships predate the village's growth into the settlement it is today.

Getting there

How to get there

By Road

Mto wa Mbu lies about 120 kilometres west of Arusha, roughly two hours on good tarmac, directly at the Lake Manyara park gate. Every northern circuit itinerary passes through it on the way to Ngorongoro and the Serengeti.

By Air

Light aircraft serve the Lake Manyara airstrip a short distance away, with connections from Arusha, the Serengeti and Zanzibar.

Weather

Weather and climate in Mto wa mbu

At around 1,000 metres on the Rift Valley floor, Mto wa Mbu is warm, with days between 26°C and 30°C and nights around 15°C to 18°C. It is noticeably hotter than Karatu on the escarpment above, and cooler than the plains further east.

Month by month

High and low temperature and rainfall, shaded by how good the month is for a safari.

Jan

28° / 15°

50 mm
Feb

29° / 15°

60 mm
Mar

28° / 16°

140 mm
Apr

26° / 16°

230 mm
May

25° / 15°

150 mm
Jun

24° / 13°

30 mm
Jul

23° / 12°

20 mm
Aug

24° / 12°

20 mm
Sep

26° / 13°

20 mm
Oct

28° / 15°

40 mm
Nov

27° / 16°

140 mm
Dec

27° / 15°

90 mm

Excellent
Very good
Good
Fair
Avoid

Rain falls in two seasons. The long rains run March to May, with April the wettest at around 230 millimetres, and short rains fall through November. Annual rainfall is roughly 700 millimetres on the valley floor, though the escarpment catches considerably more.

That difference matters, because the village's irrigation depends on water running off the higher ground rather than rain falling locally. The furrows flow year-round, which is why the farmland stays productive when the surrounding country is bare.

June to October is dry, clear and the most comfortable period for walking the village and its farmland. Use repellent at dusk in any season: the village's name is a fair warning, and malaria is present at this altitude.

Shade is limited along the main road through the village, so a hat and water are worth carrying on any walk.

Best time to go

Best time to visit Mto wa mbu

Best months: Jan–Feb, Jun–Dec

Mto wa Mbu is visited year-round because it sits directly on the northern circuit route, so the question is what the surrounding area is doing rather than the village itself.

June to October is dry and comfortable, and coincides with peak safari season when the village is at its busiest. Craft sellers along the main road are correspondingly more persistent, and cultural walks book out in the middle of the day.

December to February is warm and largely dry, with fewer vehicles passing through and a more relaxed feel. This is a good window for walking the farmland without the mid-season crowds.

March to May brings the heaviest rain, when the irrigated farmland is at its greenest and visitor numbers fall away sharply. Paths through the paddies become muddy, but the cultural programme runs regardless.

Arrive in the morning, when the market is at its most active.

For a stop of two or three hours any month works. Book cultural walks through the official tourism office rather than with people offering along the roadside, so that the fees reach the community projects they support.

Safety

Safety and security

The village is safe and used to visitors, though the volume of curio sellers along the main road can be persistent. Agree prices before accepting anything and book cultural walks through the official cultural tourism office rather than roadside touts.

Traffic on the main road is heavy with safari vehicles and trucks, and there are no pavements in places. Take care crossing, particularly with children.

Health precautions

Malaria is present at this altitude, so prophylaxis is advised and repellent should be used at dusk, the name of the village being a fair warning.

Consult a travel clinic about yellow fever, typhoid and hepatitis. Do not drink tap water. The nearest hospital of any size is at Karatu, about an hour away toward Ngorongoro.

Things to do

Things to do in Mto wa mbu

Cultural Tourism Walk

Mto Wa Mbu Village

Banana groves, rice paddies and 120 ethnic groups in one village.
Banana Beer Brewing

Local Homesteads

Watch and taste mbege, brewed from banana and millet.
Makonde Carving Workshops

Main Road

Ebony carving by Makonde artisans from the far south.
Village Market

Village Centre

Produce from every region of Tanzania in one small market.
Rift Valley Escarpment Views

Western Escarpment

The wall of the Rift rising directly behind the village.
Bicycle Village Tour

Farmland Tracks

Ride the irrigation channels and smallholdings by bicycle.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

What is Mto wa Mbu known for?

Its extraordinary diversity. Over 120 ethnic groups live in this one village, drawn from every corner of Tanzania by irrigated farmland fed by water running off the Rift Valley escarpment, and it is often described as the only settlement in the country where all of Tanzania's major language families are spoken together. That mix shows in the market, the food and the crafts. It is also the last reliable place to buy supplies before Ngorongoro.

Is the cultural tour worth doing?

It is one of the oldest and best-organised cultural tourism programmes in Tanzania, and considerably more substantive than the village visits sold at many safari stops. Walks take in banana beer brewing, Makonde ebony carving, rice paddies and irrigated smallholdings, typically over two to three hours. Book through the official cultural tourism office rather than roadside touts so that fees reach the community and fund the schools and clinics they support.

How does Mto wa Mbu fit into a safari itinerary?

It sits directly at the Lake Manyara National Park gate, about two hours from Arusha, and every northern circuit itinerary passes through on the way to Ngorongoro and the Serengeti. Most visitors stop for lunch or a cultural walk rather than staying overnight, though there are lodges. It works well as a half day paired with a Lake Manyara game drive, or as a practical lunch stop on longer driving days.

Where does the name Mto wa Mbu come from?

It translates from Swahili as River of Mosquitoes, a reference to the wetland conditions created by streams running off the escarpment onto the valley floor. Those same waters are what make the area so unusually fertile and drew farmers from across the country in the first place. Malaria prophylaxis and repellent are sensible precautions, though the village is no worse than anywhere else on the Rift Valley floor. The village is also the last reliable place to buy fresh produce, water and fuel before the climb toward Ngorongoro.

What can I buy in Mto wa Mbu?

Makonde ebony carving is the speciality, produced in workshops along the main road by artisans from the far south of Tanzania, and quality varies enormously so it is worth looking at several before buying. Beadwork, batik and paintings are also widely sold. Prices along the roadside are set high for passing safari vehicles, so negotiate firmly, or buy through the cultural tourism office where prices are more transparent. Arrive in the morning rather than the afternoon, both for the light and because the market is at its most active early.

Is it worth staying overnight?

Most visitors do not, treating the village as a stop between Arusha and Ngorongoro, but an overnight has real advantages. It puts you at the Lake Manyara gate at opening rather than mid-morning, allows the longer version of the cultural walk that reaches the outlying farms, and lets you see the market early when it is busiest. Several comfortable lodges sit just outside the village. Book cultural walks through the official tourism office rather than with people offering along the roadside.

What is banana beer?

Mbege is brewed from ripe bananas mixed with millet flour and left to ferment, producing a cloudy, mildly alcoholic drink that has been made in this region for generations. It is genuinely part of daily social life rather than a tourist demonstration, and most cultural walks include a visit to a homestead where it is brewed and a chance to taste it. The flavour is sour and unlike commercial beer.

How do I get to Mto wa Mbu?

The village lies about 120 kilometres west of Arusha, roughly two hours on good tarmac, directly at the Lake Manyara park gate. Every northern circuit vehicle passes through it, so any safari operator will include a stop on request. Light aircraft also serve the Lake Manyara airstrip a short distance away, with connections from Arusha, the Serengeti and Zanzibar for visitors on shorter itineraries. The village is also the last reliable place to buy fresh produce, water and fuel before the climb toward Ngorongoro.