Arusha is the safari capital of Tanzania and the starting point for almost every northern circuit itinerary, sitting at around 1,400 metres beneath the bulk of Mount Meru.
It is a working city rather than a resort, home to the East African Community headquarters and to the international tribunal that tried the Rwandan genocide cases, and its centre is busy, green and pleasantly cool by Tanzanian standards.
The clock tower in the middle of town is said to mark the midpoint between Cairo and Cape Town, and the city has grown outward from it into a sprawl of safari operators, craft markets, coffee shops and the workshops where every Land Cruiser on the circuit gets outfitted.
Most visitors pass through for a night at either end of a safari, but Arusha rewards a full day: craft markets, a strong coffee culture, cultural tourism programmes in the villages on the Meru slopes, and easy access to Arusha National Park an hour away.