Kigali

As the entry point to Rwanda. The international airport is here, and almost every itinerary starts and ends in the city before heading north-west to the mountain gorillas of Volcanoes National Park, west to Nyungwe Forest, or east to Akagera. Kigali also holds the Genocide Memorial, which most travellers visit, and increasingly holds people for its own sake given the food and arts scene. Rwanda banned single-use plastic bags in 2008, and they are confiscated at the airport, so pack accordingly.

Most visitors do, and it is difficult but worthwhile. The memorial at Gisozi is where more than 250,000 victims of the 1994 genocide against the Tutsi are buried, and its museum documents the causes, the hundred days and the aftermath with considerable care. Allow at least two hours, go early rather than late in the day, and expect it to affect you. Umuganda community work on the last Saturday of each month closes businesses and halts traffic for the morning.

Volcanoes National Park is around 100 kilometres north-west, roughly two to three hours by road on good tarmac, and many visitors drive up the afternoon before an early morning trek. Some stay in Kigali and leave around four in the morning instead, which is possible but makes for a very long day given that briefings start at seven. Gorilla permits are limited and expensive, and should be booked several months ahead for the dry seasons.

It is among the safest capitals in Africa, and visitors routinely comment on how comfortable they feel walking at night. Petty crime is uncommon by regional standards. Normal precautions still apply, but the contrast with other cities in the region is genuine. Photography of government buildings and military sites is restricted, and it is worth asking before pointing a camera at anything official. Rwanda banned single-use plastic bags in 2008, and they are confiscated at the airport, so pack accordingly.

It is a national community work morning held on the last Saturday of every month, when most Rwandans take part in cleaning, building and maintenance projects in their neighbourhoods. Businesses close and traffic largely stops between around eight and eleven. Visitors should plan around it, as movement in the city is restricted. Some travellers arrange to join in, which is generally welcomed. Umuganda community work on the last Saturday of each month closes businesses and halts traffic for the morning.

Yes, since 2008, and the ban is enforced at the airport where single-use plastic bags are confiscated on arrival. It is one of the reasons Kigali is so noticeably clean. Pack items in fabric or paper rather than plastic, and expect a brief bag check on entry. The policy is taken seriously and is a point of national pride. Gorilla permits are limited and expensive, and should be booked several months ahead for the dry seasons.

One or two days is typical. A day covers the Genocide Memorial and either the Nyamirambo walking tour or the art galleries, with an evening for the restaurant scene. Two days allows a more relaxed pace and the Kimironko market. Most itineraries then head to Volcanoes, Nyungwe or Akagera, returning to Kigali for a final night before flying out. Rwanda banned single-use plastic bags in 2008, and they are confiscated at the airport, so pack accordingly.

June to September is the long dry season and the main travel window, with clear conditions in the city and the firmest trails for gorilla trekking. December to February is a shorter dry window and a good alternative with easier permit availability. March to May brings the long rains, when trekking is muddier but permits and lodges are considerably cheaper. Umuganda community work on the last Saturday of each month closes businesses and halts traffic for the morning.