Mombasa

It is both, and worth at least a day in its own right. Fort Jesus and the Old Town together justify a morning, and there is nowhere better in Kenya to see Swahili urban culture as a living thing rather than a preserved exhibit. Most visitors then move on to the north or south coast beaches, but treating Mombasa purely as an airport transfer misses a genuinely interesting city. The city works best as a base for a day or two before moving to the north or south coast beaches.

By road across the Likoni ferry, which carries vehicles and foot passengers across the harbour mouth and is free for pedestrians. The crossing itself is short but queues at peak times can add an hour or more, which is why many visitors flying in prefer to land at Ukunda airstrip near Diani instead. The total journey is around 30 kilometres and takes one to two hours. Check current travel advice for the Kenyan coast before booking, as guidance is periodically revised.

It is a Portuguese fortress built in 1593 to control the harbour entrance, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011. It changed hands repeatedly between Portuguese and Omani forces over the following two centuries, including a siege lasting almost three years. It now houses a museum covering the coast's layered history and offers the best introduction to understanding Mombasa's past. Ukunda airstrip near Diani avoids the Likoni ferry entirely and is worth the cost on a short stay.

Yes, and it is a popular way to arrive. The Madaraka Express standard gauge railway runs between Nairobi and Mombasa in around five hours, with daily services in both directions and both economy and first class available. It passes along the edge of Tsavo, where game is sometimes visible from the window. Book ahead, as seats sell out particularly at holidays. The city works best as a base for a day or two before moving to the north or south coast beaches.

Broadly, with the usual urban precautions. Petty theft occurs in crowded areas including the Old Town and around the markets, so keep valuables out of sight and avoid displaying phones. Take taxis or ride-hailing after dark rather than walking. The tourist areas along the north and south coasts are well secured. Check current travel advice for the coast before booking, as guidance changes. Check current travel advice for the Kenyan coast before booking, as guidance is periodically revised.

December to March is hot, humid and reliably dry, and is the main high season for the surrounding beaches. June to September is the second dry window and considerably more comfortable, with the kusi monsoon dropping humidity. April and May bring the long rains and are worth avoiding, with May the wettest month and parts of the city prone to flooding. Ukunda airstrip near Diani avoids the Likoni ferry entirely and is worth the cost on a short stay.

Swahili coastal food, which is distinct from the rest of Kenya. Look for biriani, pilau, mahamri, viazi karai and coconut-based fish and prawn curries. Street food along the Old Town and around Mackinnon Market is excellent and inexpensive. Fresh seafood is the obvious strength given the port, and the Indian influence on the coast produces some of the best food in the country. The city works best as a base for a day or two before moving to the north or south coast beaches.

One or two nights covers the city itself comfortably, taking in Fort Jesus, the Old Town and Haller Park. Most visitors then base themselves on the north or south coast beaches for the rest of a stay, using Mombasa for a day trip. Combining a few beach nights with the city and a Tsavo safari makes a straightforward week on the coast. Check current travel advice for the Kenyan coast before booking, as guidance is periodically revised.