Mount Kenya

Not for Point Lenana at 4,985 metres, which is a trekking peak reached without ropes or technical skill over four to five days, and which the great majority of visitors climb. The true summits of Batian and Nelion at 5,199 metres are a different matter entirely, requiring genuine rock and ice climbing ability and usually a specialist guide. Most itineraries target Lenana. Guides, porters and hut bookings are arranged through operators based in Nanyuki, Naro Moru or Chogoria.

Mount Kenya is lower, considerably quieter and generally regarded as more beautiful, with dramatic jagged peaks rather than Kilimanjaro's broad volcanic dome and a far richer Afro-alpine flora. It is also cheaper and less crowded. Kilimanjaro is higher and its summit is reachable by trekking, which Mount Kenya's true summit is not. Many climbers use Mount Kenya as acclimatisation before Kilimanjaro. Huts fill during the January and August peaks, so arrangements should be made well in advance.

Sirimon from the north-west is the driest and offers gentle acclimatisation. Chogoria from the east is widely considered the most scenic, passing Lake Michaelson and the Gorges Valley. Naro Moru from the west is the fastest but includes the notorious vertical bog and has lower success rates because it gains height too quickly. Many operators ascend Sirimon and descend Chogoria. Many climbers use Mount Kenya as acclimatisation before attempting Kilimanjaro across the border.

Four to five days for Point Lenana, and five is much the better choice. The extra day allows proper acclimatisation and substantially improves both success rates and enjoyment. Three-day itineraries exist and are best avoided, as they gain height too fast and leave little margin if weather or altitude sickness intervenes. Summit day starts around two in the morning. Guides, porters and hut bookings are arranged through operators based in Nanyuki, Naro Moru or Chogoria.

It is the main reason people fail to reach Point Lenana. At 4,985 metres the air holds roughly half the oxygen of sea level, and ascending too quickly causes headaches, nausea and worse. Choose a five-day itinerary, walk slowly, drink plenty of water and tell your guide immediately about symptoms. Descending is the only reliable treatment, and guides are trained to insist on it. Huts fill during the January and August peaks, so arrangements should be made well in advance.

January to February is the driest and most reliable window, with the clearest views and firmest trails, and the best rock conditions for technical routes. July to September is the second dry window and the busiest. March to May and October to December bring the rains, when trails become muddy, cloud sits on the mountain for days and the summit is frequently invisible. Many climbers use Mount Kenya as acclimatisation before attempting Kilimanjaro across the border.

The lower forest holds elephant, buffalo, black-fronted duiker, bushbuck and colobus monkey, and trekkers on the forest sections occasionally encounter them, which is why an armed ranger accompanies some routes. Above the treeline mammals are scarce, though rock hyrax are common around the huts. The Afro-alpine flora is the real attraction at altitude rather than the fauna. Guides, porters and hut bookings are arranged through operators based in Nanyuki, Naro Moru or Chogoria.

Mountain huts and bandas serve the main routes, with bunk accommodation at Old Moses, Shipton's, Mackinder's and Minto's depending on which way you go, and camping is also permitted. Facilities are basic and unheated. Bookings are handled by your operator, and huts fill during the January and August peaks, so arrangements should be made well in advance. Huts fill during the January and August peaks, so arrangements should be made well in advance.