Tarangire National Park covers 2,850 square kilometres of baobab-studded country south-east of Lake Manyara, and it is the northern circuit’s most underrated destination.
The Tarangire River runs through the length of it, and in the dry season it is the only permanent water for a very long way. As the surrounding Maasai Steppe dries out, animals converge on the river in numbers that rival anything in the Serengeti, with elephant herds several hundred strong.
The park is defined visually by its baobabs, some of them well over a thousand years old, standing over open woodland and seasonal swamp. It is also one of the best places in Tanzania for dry-country species: fringe-eared oryx, lesser kudu and gerenuk all occur here and almost nowhere else on the circuit.
Around 550 bird species have been recorded, one of the highest counts of any Tanzanian park. Most visitors give Tarangire a single day on the way to Ngorongoro, which is a mistake: two nights allow you to reach the southern swamps where the crowds do not go.